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This marks squash season and most anticipated season, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. Today's Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chilli and palm sugar gives it a lovely balance of flavour. The biryani, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, basmati and ghee, which provide enhanced flavour to the layers of rice and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around October 6, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot layered rice dish? If you like, make the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and layer everything on the occasion you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the ghee in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a few seconds. Add the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the layering).

Add the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, fry for a brief period, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, stir in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the vegetable curry, then layer with some the rice. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint leaves, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of vegetable curry, then spoon on the leftover grains. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Seal with parchment, cover with the lid, then bake on the center rack of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and serve with raita and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "achari" describes flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the combination contains mustard, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also features in all manner of spiced dishes and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a large frying pan or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, mixing, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, cook for a minute, then stir in the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and fry, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Pour 50ml water to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, turn down the flame, and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with flatbreads or leavened bread.